A lot of this I'm using sloppy theoretical numbers and generalizations. Here are more details.
~ Aristotle Sabouni
Created: 2021-07-04 |
The manufacturers and advocates give you all these specs -- and they are good for relative measurement -- in that bigger is faster (or less time to charge), and that's better. However, they do NOT hold up in the real world in absolute numbers. Just add in some slop and don't worry about it. But if you want to know the math/why? Here's some answers.
A couple things are at play:
- With electricity, there's rated amount, and actual amount. We generally run things about 10-20% below maximum rated amount, to keep from overheating. So a 15A circuit is best to run continuously at about 13A, just to prevent overheating the cable or tripping the circuit. We talk rated, we run actual.
- There are losses. For example, the cable/batteries getting warm? That's electricity getting converted to heat and getting lost. Chargers, inverters, cables, just operating the cars computers, cooling (cabin or batteries), is all a little bit of waste (loss) on charging. Figure a few percent total.
- Charging Curves (Peak versus continuous) exist. When charging at home/destination, it doesn't matter much. When SuperCharging, it matters a lot. The specs usually talk about the best case, and not the average case. As the batteries are charged, they start to heat, and the car slows the charge rate to regulate that heat/wear. Thus how fast you are charging varies by how far into the charge/heating you are -- and it is the car that controls this (based on battery temp) more than the Charger.
Rated versus actual[edit | edit source]
- Losses Generally, the charging losses are only 2-3 percent. On top of that, your battery doesn't have 100% usable space. So if it's a 78 kWh battery, probably more like 74 kWh is usable, and that means the losses in charging efficiency, and losses in usable capacity, kinda cancel each other out. And the numbers are low enough to usually ignore as noise. But you might notice discrepencies between what the Charger says and the Car says on charging; that difference is usually just disipated heat, or other losses.
Level 1 charging
You might think 120v @ 20A is 2.4 kW... but in truth, a 20A rated circuit breaker, will be throttled by the charger/car to about 16A to leave headroom (for heat and not tripping by accident). Theory is 2.4 kW. Reality is 1.9 kW.
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Level 2 changing
240v @ 80A is 19 kW.... but only Ford uses an 80A home charger. Most use 60A, throttled to 50A, or about 12 kW. Thus the 4 hour charge time becomes 6 in the real world.
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Charging Curves
Supercharging gets more dramatic: Batteries heat up and wear as you charge them. The slower you charge, the better for the battery. Charging an empty battery can take full load, say 350 kW, for a short period, but they quickly start to heat, and thus they drop down draw, and by the end of a full session are down to 50 kW. Loosely 30 minutes will get you from 10-75% or so, and it will take you another 30 minutes to get to 100%, because of these charging/heating curves.
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V2G
Some chargers and EVs offer V2G (Vehicle to Grid). Basically, that you can drain your car battery and sell it back to the Power Company, during peak, and make some money back. It's a solution that nobody really wants, thus it doesn't really exist in the real world, and you don't probably want it if it did.
In theory, it V2G sounds good. But in practice?
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Tags: Electric Vehicles/Charging